Bill O'Fare

by Jonathan McCosh

When you hear somebody speak of Scottish cuisine, you think of things such as Meat Pies, Bridies, or (gasp) Haggis. What you would seldom think of is fish, but with its vast coastline, hundreds of islands, inland rivers, and lochs, fish has always been a main staple of the Scottish diet. Ocean fishing began prior to the period that our historical group represents, and continues to this day with vast fishing fleets that make Scotland the largest fishing region of the British Isles. From the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea the Scots fish for cod, haddock, plaice, halibut, and whiting. From the inland waterways the Scots fish for salmon, pike, and trout. The city of Aberdeen has been known for its cured fish since the 13th Century.

With all this rich history of fishing, it seemed to be appropriate that our on-site demonstrations at various Highland Games should include various fish recipes. The following three recipes were adapted from the book Traditional Scottish Cookery by Theodora Fitzgibbon, and were all enthusiastically sampled by our group of historic Scots. The Glasgow Cod was prepared at the 1995 Maine Highland Games, the Casserole of Fish was prepared at the 1995 New Hampshire Highland Games, and the Salmon Steaks MacLeod was prepared at the 1996 Tam O'Shanter Highland Games.

Glasgow Cod

1 lb of skinned and filleted cod, 3 oz of medium oatmeal, 2 oz of butter (the traditional recipe calls for 1 oz of butter and 1 oz of finely shredded suet), 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped chives, salt, pepper, 1/2 pint of hot (but not boiling) milk, 1 teaspoon chopped onion, 1/2 teaspoon chopped parsley.

Using cloth, pat the fish dry and put into greased dish, seasoning with salt and pepper. Dot the top of the fish with one ounce of butter, and pour the hot milk around it. Mix the oatmeal, remaining butter or suet, onion, chives, and parsley to a firm paste, seasoning to taste and using a little of the hot milk if it is too dry. Form the mixture into balls around the fish and bake at 350F for around half an hour (it took about 20 minutes on site in the cast iron oven).

Casserole of Fish

(The recipe states that it can be made with almost any white fish, and recommends that Halibut be used.)

2 medium-sized carrots, i medium celery heart, 2 medium onions, 2 lb of white fish, seasoned flour, 3 oz butter, 1 teaspoon chopped fennel, 2 tablespoons chopped parsley, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

Scrape the carrots. Chop the carrots, celery, and onions and add them to a saucepan of boiling water, adding salt to taste, and simmering for 15 to 20 minutes until the vegetables are soft. Skin, bone, and cut the fish into convenient-sized pieces. Coat the fish with seasoned flour and fry in a pan of melted butter. Sprinkle the chopped fennel on, and fry until a golden brown on both sides. Place the fish in a baking dish without breaking them, adding the lemon juice. Add the strained vegetables, and about a half pint of the stock from the fry pan. Bake at 325F for about half an hour (it took about 15 minutes in the cast iron oven that we used on site). Remove, draining any excess juice into the frying pan. Add parsley to the frying pan, boil rapidly, and pour over the fish.

Salmon Steaks MacLeod

4 salmon steaks, 2 tablespoons seasoned flour, 1 tablespoon butter, 4 tablespoons cream, salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon of chopped fennel, (optional: 1 lemon, 2 tablespoons dry sherry).

Dip the salmon steaks in the seasoned flour, then lay them in a thickly buttered shallow dish. Mix the cream with fennel (and sherry, if used), then season with a little salt and pepper. Pour this over the steaks. Cover and bake in the oven at 375F for about half an hour (it took about 20 minutes in the cast iron oven that we used on site). When done add lemon juice, if used.

References:

Fitzgibbon, Theodora, Traditional Scottish Cookery

Encyclopedia Britannica, "Scotland"

Walmsley, Leo, "Between the Heather and the North Sea", National Geographic, February, 1933